Day 2

VERY happy to report that I slept like a log last night.  My wake-up call came at 6:30am and I couldn't believe how hard I was asleep.  Felt like I was in the Twilight Zone before gaining enough consciousness to answer the phone!  Unfortunately, most of the rest of the group was up at 2:30am, 3:30am, 4:30am....

Started this morning with the much-anticipated Israel breakfast... a treat for all!  I'll try to remember to post some pictures of the buffet tomorrow.  So many cheeses, yogurts, nuts, olives, pickles, cereals, plus traditional American breakfast items like french toast, eggs, etc.  Oh, and I shouldn't forget the HALAVA LOAF!  One at EACH END of the buffet -- you shouldn't miss it!

We rolled ourselves out of the hotel at 8:00am -- ON TIME!!! much to the delight of our guide, Nir -- and made our way to the Old City of Jerusalem.  Once inside the walls, we toured the Davidson Center where we learned much about the history of the Old City and the ongoing excavation work.  We walked around the Southern wall area to view the ancient steps that the commoners would ascend to bring their sacrifices to the Temple.

We then descended to an uncovered section of the orginal streets of Jerusalem dating back to the Temple-period.  A fascinating peek into what likely existed in the Temple's earliest days.

For the next hour we wandered around the Kotel area (the Western Wall) and enjoyed the incredible sights and sounds of more than 30 Bar Mitzvah ceremonies taking place around the perimeter of the men's side of the Wall area.  Pix will be posted later, hopefully.  (Still trying to figure some of this out as I go along.  Patience...)

From the Wall area we descended 25 feet below current "street level" to walk through the Western Wall "tunnel" to the lowest currently-known point at which the Western Wall sits upon the ground of Mount Moriah. 

And then an amazing treat.  Not since I was first in Israel in 1979 have I had the opportunity to walk on the Temple Mount.  As a very last-minute suggestion, I convinced our guide that this was a better option than the "ramparts walk".  The opportunity to walk atop the Temple Mount doesn't come around that often, and is usually based on the level of tension in the region.  Today was a "good day" and we were able to visit.  Of course, no non-Muslim is allowed to enter the Dome of the Rock or the Al Aqsa mosque, but we stood right next to both and learned much of the history of this phenomenal place.  My great thanks to Nir for making "the right phone calls" to get the tour company's consent to bring our group there!

LUNCH....felafel and shewarma in the Jewish Quarter of the Old City.  DELICIOUS.  I will say that the restaurant had no bathroom.  When I asked the proprietor for directions he (typical of Israelis) pointed this way and that in absolutely meaningless gestures.  So...4 of us started walking and, of course, got horribly lost.  We wandered into an actual neighborhood within the Jewish Quarter whereupon I asked a little boy if he could tell us where the bathrooms were.  In true Israeli fashion, he, too, muttered a bunch of meaningless directions while gesturing this way and that.  As we started walking away he asked if we wanted him to show us.  Our bladders were MOST appreciative of this 6 year old's lead!!!!!  He was accompanied by his two sisters who couldn't have been much for that 4 and 5.  What a great experience!!!

We spend the balance of the afternoon shopping and meandering through the Arab Marketplace having so much fun enjoying the sights, sounds, and smells, and the wonderful bargains we scored.  Nothing like it ANYWHERE in America.  NOTHING!

We are back at the hotel now (which is lovely) enjoying a little down-time.  At 6:00pm in the lobby we are going to join the Chief Rabbi of Israel!!!!! in lighting the Chanukiah.  THAT was unscheduled, and discovered by good luck this morning.

From there we are off to dinner at a WONDERFUL restaurant called Olive & Loaf.  Been there before, but I'll report on that after...

Have a great day... it was 85 degrees and sunny here in Jerusalem.  It's like Summer in December, and quite unbelievable.

Best to all,
Rabbi Jeff Astrachan